Grasse Perfumes

Day 4 – Raw Materials & Suppliers

Posted by ANA.

As I anticipated from my previous experience, walking to school takes me about 40 to 45 minutes walk with few moments of rest to catch my breath and rest my legs, as there are many sections which are UP-HILL!!

Today, I arrived the FIRST at class. The teacher was still preparing her material and structure of her class when I arrived. I asked her whether for her it was better I stayed outside the classroom or would it be OK to be inside the classroom. She did not mind I was there, but she would not be talking to me at that time as she was concentrating in the preparation of the lessons of today.

Today, we learned to identify many categories of RAW MATERIALS – this means:

  • beans,
  • resins
  • plant
  • Wood
  • pods
  • seeds
  • twigs or branches
  • root

In that line of materials we could visually and by their aroma identify: Tonca bean, Myrrh, Frankincense, Benzoin, Sandalwood, Opoponax, Amber seed (Musk), Orris (Iris), Inmortel (Helichrysone, Everlasting), Evernia (Oakmoss).

Raw Materials
Frankincense, Myrrh, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Oakmoss or Evernia, Inmortel or Helychrisum, Opoponax, Seaweed, Ambret seed, Orris or Iris

This experience was very different. Sometimes it is hard to identify the odours, as the material is solid and needs rubbing, or burning or dilution into alcohol or other solvent. While this material is processed by Distillation or by an Extract from Combustion and Filtering and Dilution.

Appreciating raw materials like wood, seeds, resins, roots, twigs, flowers

Again, we learned the different origins of these raw materials and which of the original countries, if the material is encountered in many regions or countries, is the best quality.

From Left bottom to top to Right bottom to top: Tonka bean, Sandalwood, Ambret seed, Immortel, then, Evernia, Myrrh, Opoponax, Benzoin, Frankincense, Orris unpeeled

There was also resolution of inquiries about pricing. Generally speaking, the prices of essential oil or absolute, are calculated by 1 litre or 1 kg. Each minimum price is calculated per kg.

We learned the difference in process between a RESINOID and a CONCRETE.

A RESINOID is an extract from a dried material. A resin is produced by trees.

A CONCRETE is an extract from a fresh material such as fresh flowers.

Then, Elisabeth Proal gave us a lot of information about important people in the industry and their Associations,  suppliers and traders, processors, and transformers in Grasse. She is connecting us into the perfume industry here in Grasse.

IMPORTANT PERSONS / ORGANISATIONS:

  • PAYAN BERTRAND – Family Company. Tomorrow, Wednesday 15 May, we are going to visit this organisation and people
  • Jean-Claude Elena : Director of Les Amis de MIP (Musée International du la Parfum)
  • Christian Mahé : Director of PRODARON, which is a Syndicate for Aromatic Products
  • Le Savoir-faire du Pays de Grasse: People who join this association are:
    • Agriculturalists 
    • Chemists
    • Engineers
    • Perfumers

SUPPLIERS AND/OR TRADERS:

  • B.H.L.
  • Diffusions Aromatiques, directed by F Gasque – Indurern
  • AACE: Associate Allied Chemical Europe by C Paillan
  • BERNARDI (Sappa P)
  • MPE: Matière Premier Essentials (SCARPA)
  • ADL: Astier Desnaret (Destournieux)
  • QUINDIS
  • FLORAL CONCEPT
  • Perfumer Supply House : Christine distribute from ROBERTET)
  • Perfumer Apprentice for USA market

PROCESSORS AND TRANSFORMERS: They do Extracts and Blends, but not finished products

  • ROBERTET 
  • CHARABOT
  • IFF (International Flavours Fragrances) – LMR (Laboratoire Monique Remy): Monique Remy started with Chanel. Now she is retired.
  • FIRRENICH
  • ALBERT VIREILE (Givaudan)
  • BONTOUX
  • REYNAUD
  • PAYAN
  • MANE
  • Absolute aromas : For aromatherapy raw materials by David Tomlinson. (Moved out of Grasse).
  • BIOLANDES: Goutiere, near Bordeaux – Le Sen

SMELLING VARIOUS OILS, EXTRACTS FROM A SPECIFIC FAMILY

  • From balsamic family
  • From citrus family
    • From the fruit – it is always a COLD PRESS / Centrifugation Expression
    • From the flower, leaf or twigs – it is always steam distillation or solvent extract
  • Orange – bitter flower family
  • Greens family
  • Jasmine family
  • Ambery, woods Family (CISTUS LABDANUM): it has different ways of processing, depending on the part of the plant:
    • Boiling – water plus extraction
    • Boiling – water plus distillation
    • Boiling – water special process
    • Steam distillation (essential oil)
    • Solvent Extraction (concrete, absolute, special process: Dynamone (Givaudan), Cistus Absolute (SIS)
  • Roses Family
  • Spicy Family
  • Aldehydes and acetates from natural sources.

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My name is Ana Elena Sastrias. I lived most of my life in Mexico City, one of the most populated cities in the world. I studied Computer Engineering in 1982. In 1996 moved to Sydney, Australia with my husband and started a new life. I continued working in IT, but I always had a deep inclination to Visual Art since I was a child. So, I always tried to draw and paint in my free time and since 1999 my husband and myself did some Black and White photography. In 2006 I started to change career to be more adapted to Graphic Design and Art and for almost 2 years I rented a studio in St Peters and starting painting and participating in Art Exhibitions and Art Prizes until 2009. Due to the progress of a neuromuscular debilitating disease my husband was suffering, I became his sole carer and could no longer participate easily in Art Exhibitions and work full time. Since 2006 I joined carers NSW and became a Carers Representative. In 2008, I worked for Legal Community Services amongst Women’s Lawyers in a Women’s Environment. This was very different environment compared to my formation being surrounded mostly by Men during my professional career. So, this time I could mix my skills and learnt a lot about Family Law and working for a Feminist Organisation supporting women victims of DV from their partners or family members with referrals, publications, legal advice, Court hearings, Subpoenas.
In 2010 I was awarded NSW Local Carer. In 2011 I worked for Family Relationship Services and Counselling & Therapeutical Services and Education administering the Community Services. It has been since 2011 that my garden in my house started to be significant to me as my late husband could no longer easily go out to see the flowers, so I was photographing flowers and showing them in an iPad to him so he could see the progress and beauty of the roses and other flowers. After the passing of my husband in 2013, I continued collecting petals and using them as decoration until in 2016 I looked into all ways to use rose petals and got motivated to try the world of Perfumery since then.
In 2014, recently widowed, I decided again to take my artistic and cultural interest and focused on Business Administration and Arts Administration. Assisted in the administration of Cultural Community Events in my internship for the Local Government NSW at the Vivid Festival in 2014. It was a full on very interesting experience to see with so many interesting community projects submitted to Councils.
Since the end of 2016 until 2019 that I attended various Body Care and Perfumery courses at Heirloom Body Care, Penrith LGA. The level of these master courses was excellent with good resources.
In 2017, I decided to launch my Etsy shop ‘AESCreationNaturel’ that has been growing very gradually at a conservative but consistent pace.
My first Etsy shop has listed natural handcrafted perfumes with the flexibility of customisation and offering various presentations for the same perfume fragrance according to the client’s budget. This online shop has been operating since then, landing more than 180 online sales and 63 ‘5-stars’ reviews published on the shop with very positive comments. In the same year, I attended a seminar of Business in the Cosmetics Industry at New Directions.
In May 2019 I went to France and attended a Summer Course in Natural Perfumery and Natural Cosmetics at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, AFSO, PRODAROM in Grasse, France. It was so wonderful and met very exciting women at the class and the teachers were very knowledgeable and I had a great experience.
It is until June 2021, that I am working solely in growing and scaling my business and joined the HERBusiness Network on the 27 August 2021.

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